ximen | More Xi'an (Reply)

The next day, we got up pretty early, which gave us time for breakfast before checking out. Breakfast turned out to be a round piece of flatbread filled with spicy meat: beef for me and chicken for El. Then we each drank a bag of strawberry yogurt to stop the burning from the chili. We checked out, moved to our new hostel, which is much less nice, but has kittens! The new hostel is also conveniently located by the South Gate of Xi'an. Xi'an has managed to preserve its old city walls, which form a rectangle around what used to be the city, and you can go to the top of the wall and look around. Unfortunately, to get to the ticket booth, you have to cross a very busy street with no crosswalk or light. Playing human Frogger didn't really appeal, but we really wanted to go across, so we waited until a few other people had shown an interest in crossing, and then we used them as a sort of human shield as we all crossed together. At the top of the wall, we rented some very creaky old bikes and rode all the way around the city wall. The bikes were old and the wall was uneven, so the ride was not the most comfortable, but it was fun and we got a good look at various parts of the city. We managed the trip in exactly 98 minutes, a number I know because the bikes were rented for 100 minutes. Then we had to try and cross back. Since you are reading this post, you know we both survived (if El had been killed this post would be much more distraught), but it was pretty scary at the time. Xi'an really needs to install an underground crossing to get to the gate.

Then we went to the Great Mosque, which is basically what it sounds like. It was especially interesting seeing Arabic calligraphy decorating a Chinese-looking building. We also got more Muslim food, since we were in the neighborhood. The stir-fried rice noodle cubes that were kind of disappointing, but the other two snacks were delicious: the fried flatbread with cabbage and peppers inside was the best, but I also liked the glutinous rice cakes with sesame paste that had been rolled in peanut and then drizzled with rose syrup and smeared with red bean paste. Like Portland, Xi'an has roses planted everywhere. Unlike Portland, Xi'an is also filled with rose-flavored snacks. Sorry Portland, I think Xi'an has you beat as City of Roses. After that we went back to rest and digest, and just as we were starting to feel hungry again, El's cousin showed up. He's a geology professor who happens to be here for a conference, so he and a local professor decided to take us out for Beijing duck. No complaints here. My favorite part of Beijing duck is that right when you're starting to finish making and eating the little duck tacos, they bring you the soup made from your duck. Then we went home and I realized I had gotten sunburned. Given that it was cloudy and occasionally drizzling all day, I was pretty annoyed.

Yesterday we got around to Xi'an's main draw: the Terracotta Warriors. I forgot my camera, so I'll have to wait for El to upload her pictures. The warriors themselves were really impressive, as were their terracotta horses. Also impressive, but not in a good way, was the 15 minute walk in the burning sun from the parking lot to the entrance gate, and then the five-minute walk from the first entrance gate to the second entrance gate. Why does it need two entrance gates? Why can't they put any shade up? Even with sunscreen I was worried about further burning, so I did the Chinese girl thing and hid under a sun umbrella.

Yesterday also had more delicious things to eat: some flatbread stuffed with pickled shredded vegetables, almost like a mostly-vegetarian flatbread banh mi, the super-spicy noodles we had for lunch, and the beef and homestyle tofu we had for dinner.

Today I get back on a plane for Shanghai, and tomorrow I return to the US. I'm sad, but also kind of relieved to be going home. I miss my cat!